|
Got a question for the carving crew? Drop us line (click here) and we'll post the answer here! |
|
Click on the topics below for more information Doris asks:
 | Would you mind giving me some advice on what to purchase for a novice carver?
 | I am a fan of tools that you can use: not what the guy at the store is trying to sell you. Some of the best carvers I have seen (Harold Enlow for example) that have about 6 tools, kept in a cigar box, that they use to carve everything. I haven't been at it for 40+ years, yet, so I need about a dozen tools to get me through all occasions. For the beginner, I recommend the following: 1 rough-out (cutting) knife for big cuts at the beginning of the project. 1 detail knife (long very pointy blade) for small cuts in the middle and end of the projects. 1 #5 or #7 3/8 inch U gouge 1 #3 (shallow) 1/2 inch to 1 inch wide fishtail gouge for shaping and smoothing (can be used upside down) 1 medium sized V-tool 1 small(2 mm) #3 smoothing gouge (detail work) 1 small V-tool (detail work) 1 strop + compound 1 pencil + soft eraser 1 old toothbrush (cleaning up hanging chips and "fuzzies") 1 tool roll / bag that holds all the tools so their tips do not touch and nick each other. 1 Carver's Safety Glove (Fisherman's Filet Glove) 1
carrying case / bag / toolbox to carry all this stuff in. Should be big enough to carry some wood blanks and / or carvings. The only additions one would need to this basic kit would be more gouges of different sweeps (shallow to steep) and sizes (small 1.5 mm up to as big as you can get, with all sizes in between). These will come with time: when your carving has advanced to the point you need them, you will know it. That's the time to buy it. Learn to properly strop all you tools, and strop them on a regular basis (20 to 40 strokes every 20 to 30 minutes of tool usage). Strop them all before attending a class! If you do periodic maintenance on your tools, they will stay razor sharp, and will not need sharpening on a stone (which shortens the life of a carving tool). Flexcut tools are affordable and come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. They are spring steel which is soft (doesn't hold an edge too long, but is easily stropped back to a razor's edge). Stubai tools are more expensive but are better harder steel (brittle, holds an edge a long time, but when it gets dull, it takes more work to return them to a razor edge). Diobson Forge makes great (expensive) knives (stainless steel). Flexcut also makes good knives. Helve knives are just OK but have real pretty handles. Gil Drake makes some GREAT knives, for a price. 2 handed (mallet carving) tools are a whole different discussion... |
|
|
|
Bruana asks:
| Where can I locate supplies for carousel horses? I need brass poles and bases, etc. for miniature carousel horses, and can't find them anywhere...
| The best I can locate would be at |
| http://carouselmagic.com/catalog/index.htm |
| look around this website for wood bases, glass eyes, etc. If they can't provide poles, have you thought about making / carving a wooden one and painting it gold or brass (with or without antiquing)? Good luck! |
|
|
|
Bill asks:
| What are the proper angles for grinding / sharpening carving tools?
| Tool profiles vary a little from vendor to vendor, but basically, the following rules apply: |
| knives 12.5 degrees |
| palm tools 17.5 degrees |
| mallet tools 21 degrees |
| Note that some vendors (Pfiel - Swiss Made & Dastra) grind a second micro bevel out at the very edge of the tool - this is the part that is 21 degrees. |
| For more information about sharpening tools, follow the links to articles at the bottom of the "Tool Sharpening" page (Click Here!) |
|
|
|
Betty asks:
| What is the difference between a rough-out and a blank?
| Rough outs are "roughed out" ie: a machine (Duplo Router) makes a rough copy of an existing carving, in the round, by chewing / grinding off the excess wood with a precision router. The result is a piece of wood that is rounded and contains all the shape of the final product without the details. |
| 
|
| Blanks are flat sided pieces of wood, cut on 1 or 2 profiles, that contain the basic outline of a carving, with just enough detail to provide visual reference for placement of details and features. |
| 
|
| |
| |
|
|
|
Jim asks:
| What are some good species of wood for carving? Species of Carving Woods:
Basswood: light, even grained, easy to carve. Fairly common in the U.S. The European version of Bass is called Linden, and is a little creamier color and tighter grained. Does not accept stain evenly. Northern White Pine: light, relatively strait grained, easy to carve if grain direction is observed. From the northern mid-west and Canada, stains well. This is what we usually use here at Heritage Arts Studio. Butternut: medium chocolate brown color with caramel streaks. Knots are easy to carve through. Relatively strait grained, easy to carve if grain direction is observed. Used to found in most states of U.S. but is now nearing extinction and is hard to find (more expensive). A beautiful wood for projects that are not painted. Jelutong: A strange jungle vine wood that is light in color, very strait grained and easy to carve. Paints well and is a favorite of realistic bird and fish carvers. Black Willow: A new wood for carvers, found in many U.S. states. Carves similar to northern white pine, but is pink in color with blackish streaks. Another beautiful wood for unpainted projects. Sugar Pine: A little more open grained than it's northern cousin, used to be found commonly in Oregon but is endangered by pests and forest fires. Somewhat orange / pink in color with darker streaks and dots. Tupelo: A wood for power carvers only! Gouges and V-tools just tear the wood as it is spongy and from the southern swampy states. Cottonwood Bark: Best bark comes from northern states and Canada. 2 colors / species - yellow and red. Carves very easily and the grain is very forgiving. Has a rough but attractive grey outer surface. Black Walnut: Dark in color and rather hard (softer than maple and oak). One of the most beautiful woods for carving and furniture making. Best worked with mallet tools or power tools.
|
|
|
Pete asks:
| My cottonwood bark has a split / layer that is very loose, and I am afraid the nose will fall off. How can I fix this?
| Put some white glue (Elmer's or Ross or whatever) in a paper cup. Add drops of warm water until the glue is thinned out. Using an eye dropper, inject the warm thinned glue into the cracks / fissures between the layers, until it looks like the void has been filled. Set something fairly heavy like a telephone book on it, and leave it overnight. The white glue will seal the voids and dry clear. When finished drying, carve right through and you will not be able to see a glue line. DO NOT USE gap filling glues like Gorilla Glue - bad things will happen! |
|
|
|
Dianna asks:
| When I am done with my carving, what do I do first to finish it?
| First you seal the carving, then varnish it (3 coats), then antique. Allow 5 days drying time for the antiquing, then apply one more coat of spray varnish to finish the piece. For exact instructions, we provide a handy booklet ($6.00) that shows the complete process, with step by step photos, materials lists and helpful tips...  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You can look forward to more information about carving, posted here, from your friends at Heritage Arts Studio! |
|
